Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Londonton Abbey - Day 5

In case you missed it:
Londonton Abbey - Day 3 (Hampton Court Palace)

We mailed some postcards (note the E II R towards the bottom of the drop box). Then headed to Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey doesn't allow photos inside so this is a photo from a Westminster Abbey courtyard with a view of the Victoria Tower of the Palace of Westminster. 

Westminster Abbey was really dark inside.  Not just lighting-wise, but also because all the stones that make up the walls and floors are dark.  Basically, Westminster felt like an indoor graveyard and a monument to men, not a church of God.  It was kind of strange to feel that way about one of the most famous churches around.  Westminster was nice, but I think it's one that can actually be skipped, especially for £16/person.  I did like recognizing all the famous names in Poet's Corner, though.  I thought it was interesting that some people are not buried there, but still have monuments there. 

These statues of WWII soldiers were in the west cloister. They are part of the Combined Services Memorial honoring the men in the Submarine Service, the Commandos, and the Airborne Forces and Special Air Service.

I thought the most beautiful part of Westminster Abbey was King Henry VII's chapel.  (This part was behind where Will and Kate's wedding took place).  The ceiling of the chapel is very ornately carved and painted and the chapel as a while is pretty much the only part of Westminster that wasn't dark. 

As you might recall, Westminster Abbey is where Will and Kate's wedding took place.  I made Tyler walk slow with me down the aisle like I was Kate.  It was wonderful.  :)  T is such a good sport!

Some interesting facts about Westminster Abbey:  The last royal to be buried at Westminster was in the 1700's.  Since then they have all been buried at Windsor.  The last full body to be buried at Westminster was the unknown soldier from WWI (Kate laid her wedding bouquet on that grave as she left the chapel).  Since then, every person buried at the Abbey has to be cremated because they just don't have enough space.  The most recent burial was an Abbey priest in 2008. 

We ate lunch at a cafe called Pickles then moseyed over to the Churchill War Rooms / Museum.  The Churchill War Rooms were the secret underground headquarters where Churchill directed the war effort.  Many of the rooms remain exactly as they were when they were abandoned at the end of the war in August 1945.  The enitre War Rooms are quite large.  I thought it was just a map room and a cabinet room, but it wasn't just military planning rooms.  People who worked there (in the map room, or as secretaries, or any number of positions) actually slept and lived down there for days at a time.

The audio tour was good, but I felt like the museum was poorly laid out.  There were so many handwritten memos on display and I'm sure they were interesting and historically important, but I really just couldn't read any of the handwriting and there weren't any typed captions accompanying them other than names and dates, so I skipped over most of them. 

This is T in front of the door to the first secure transatlantic telephone line that gave Churchill a direct line to FDR.  Almost no one working in the war rooms had any idea that the telephone line existed or was behind this door.  Most people thought this door led to the only indoor bathroom in the war rooms and was always locked because it was only for the highest ranking officials. 

I knew that London was bombed a lot during the Blitz, but I didn't really realize how constant and heavy it was until we visited the War Rooms and listened to some personal experiences.  Several people talked about how when they would come out of the War Rooms at the end of their shift they would start walking home, only to realize that entire streets and neighborhoods were gone.   

This is an enigma coding machine that the Nazis used to encrypt and decrypt secret messages.

In addition to the war rooms there was also a (relatively) small museum about Winston Churchill.  I didn't know that between VE day and VJ day Churchill was voted out as Prime Minister.  What a way to treat the guy who got you through the war!  But six years later he was Prime Minister again. 

These are a bunch of medals that Churchill won.  That is a lot of brass for one chest.   

My favorite thing about Winston Churchill was how much he loved his wife, Clementine.  The first time Winston met her at a party he was literally speechless.  The next time he met her (four years later!) he immediately asked her to dance and that was that.  They had nicknames for each other (Cat and Pug) and would often sign letters to each other with just a drawing of a cat or pug.  There were lots of other sweet things, and it just made me swoon a bit.

The door to Number 10 Downing Street, the Prime Minister's Residence, and Churchill's thoughts on being Prime Minister during WWII.

T with one of the maps in the map room.  You can see some of the pins, but there were thousands of pin holes from tracking the movement of troops and supplies. 

After the War Rooms we walked through St. James Park on our way to "Buck House" aka Buckingham Palace


The fountain in front of Buckingham Palace.


This is the best photo we have of us and Buckingham Palace.  We thought we would go by it again on our way home and get a closer shot, but we ended up going a different route.

We actually went inside part of Buckingham Palace to the Royal Mews (the place where they keep the horses and carriages).  We could have also seen the Queen's Gallery, which is rotating exhibits of art privately owned by the crown, but the exhibit was DaVinci's anatomy drawings which neither of us were very interested in.  In July (so we obviously couldn't visit) the State Rooms of Buckingham Palace are open to the public (for a fee, of course).

This fancy car (I have no idea what kind; T: it's an Aston Martin) was parked at the Mews in the parking spot reserved for the doctor. We weren't sure if it was a horse doctor or a human doctor. Either way, he seems to be doing pretty well for himself.

The carriage that the Queen's ladies in waiting rode in on their way to Parliament the day before.

One of two of the Queen's Rolls Royces

The Australian carriage that the Queen rode to Parliament in.


I really wanted to see the State Landau that William and Kate rode in after their wedding but it was at Windsor for a horse show.  Bummer. 

These little carriages were used for the amusement of the royal children.

The Gold State Coach is HUGE.  And impressive.  It has been used for every coronation since George IV's.

The carriage weighs four tons and the back wheel is a bit taller than me.

Apparently, though, it is also a very bumpy ride.  A prince from back in the day who was also a Navy Admiral said that riding in that carriage was worse than any storm he had ever been in at sea. 

The Glass Carriage that Princess Di rode in for her wedding.

The aerial view of Buckingham Palace.  The road right down the center of the photo is Britian's "Mall." The Royal Mews is the building off to the bottom right of the palace, with the trees in the courtyard.

After the Royal Mews we headed to Harrod's for dinner because we heard they had an American Diner restaurant in the store.  It was a crazy walk and I got so turned around, but thankfully T has more iron boogers than me (inside joke) and got us there.  Harrod's is like the NYC Macy's but more everything (more expensive, opulent, large, etc).  We were so hungry when we arrived, but didn't eat at the restaurant because a hamburger and fries was £18!  Ridiculous!  We ended up buying stuff at the "food court" that we didn't know was cold. 

On the tube ride home T's head got hit by the tube doors (that curve drastically at the top, because apparently British people are short) when they were closing, because the tube was so full.  It hurt a lot.  Back at the hotel we ended the night by watching a British show that was essentially zooborns on TV!  They were so cute!

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Londonton Abbey - Day 4

In case you missed it:
Londonton Abbey - Days 1 and 2 (flying and Hever Castle)
Londonton Abbey - Day 3 (Hampton Court Palace)


Wednesday, May 9th we started with The Tower of London (which was included in the the Historic Royal Palaces Membership that we bought at Hampton Court Palace).  This was our second favorite sight of our trip.  It looks so... fortress-y.  It also looks like T is wearing a tiny pointy hat.  Haha.


Another blurry photo taken by someone else.  These are the yeoman warders (aka beefeaters) who guard the Tower of London and give tours.  Interesting combo, no?  (We asked why they are called beefeaters and really no knows how or why it started, but it stuck).

The first thing we did was go check out the crown jewels.  Unfortunately, no photos are allowed, but let me tell you:  Those things sparkle like nobody's business.  They make the Hope Diamond look like a child's dress-up jewelry.  Seriously.  No photo even comes close to capturing the shine of these because they were truly blinding.  This one is the Imperial State Crown (photo from hrp.org).  It just has over 3,000 precious stones, no biggie.  (This is nothing compared to the Imperial Crown of India which has over 6,000 precious stones!  It weighs over 5 pounds!)


Actually, this crown wasn't there - the case was empty.  We asked why, and it was because the Queen was wearing it that day to open Parliament!  I can't believe that we didn't know about it and missed our chance to see the Queen in her natural habitat (aka a crown and a carriage)!  Since we had the membership we decided to come back later in the week to see the crown.

The sovereign's scepter was also really cool.  This is just the top portion, but it is blinged out all the way down.  You have to see this in person to believe it.  That huge center diamond is the largest perfect cut diamond in the world.  I'm not even kidding when I say it is the size of a large lemon.    It was mind blowing.  (photo from here)

The main room in the Crown Jewels exhibit has two moving sidewalks on either side of the jewels.  This is actually a really smart by the museum to keep the crowds moving.  There is also a viewing platform you can stand on behind the moving sidewalk.  I can't believe how many people just let the moving sidewalk take them along then just passed into the next room.  We seriously went down the moving sidewalk six times and spent about 15 minutes on the platform just admiring everything.  I really recommend going up onto the platform.  There are some signs with interesting facts about each piece, PLUS the yeoman warders are super nice and knowledgeable about every single thing you could think to ask about the crown jewels.  We learned A LOT.

It's incredible to think that the coronation regalia (the coronation crown, the scepter, and the orb) have been used by the monarchy since at least the 1600's and the anointing spoon is from the 12th century! Talk about feeling the weight of your ancestors on you when you are coronated as monarch!

This is the Queen's Jubilee Crystal Diamond (it's the thing encircled by the crown), which apparently will be used to light the national beacon during her Diamond Jubilee.  The Brits (or at least those in the Greater London area) are REALLY into the Diamond Jubilee.  About half of the souvenirs we saw in any given shop had to do with the Jubilee.

The White Tower
Inside the White Tower of the Tower of London was the Royal Armoury / weapons exhibit.  The White Tower is pretty impressive just by itself - it was built in 1078 (yes! 700 years before the American Revolution!) and is the central and largest tower in the Tower of London.

These are the largest (for a 6'7" man) and smallest (for a three year old boy) suits of armor in the world.  They are also really old. You know – like most of the stuff in London.

This Native American head dress was a gift from the Queen of America.  No, not really.  That is a variation on a quote by Porthos from the 1993 "Three Musketeers" movie.  It just made me really happy to see something from America.  USA!  USA!  USA!

It's hard to tell, but this is a completely blinged out handgun.  It's like someone let an 8 year old girl just go crazy on it with her bedazzler.

These are the apartments on the Tower of London premises where the yeoman warders live.  Also, note the smoke.  That was from cannons / guns for the 41 gun salute for the Queen opening Parliament.  I'm not really sure of the significance of 41 here.

Ummm... there was this cool dragon thing made of weapons and shields and stuff... so we took a picture.  That is all.

One of many spiral staircases throughout the Tower of London palace.

The old armory in the Tower of London

So this guy is stationed out front of the Crown Jewels exhibit.  When we went in I really thought he was a mannequin because he was so pasty and still so I was rather surprised when we passed by again and he was marching in front of his little hut!


A horribly ill fitting bearskin hat at the Tower of London gift shop.  The ones we saw later at Buckingham Palace were much nicer, but it was also a much classier joint and I didn't dare try one on there.

NOT the London Bridge.  This is actually Tower Bridge right outside of the Tower of London.  The London Bridge is actually the next bridge west, and it is a smaller, very normal looking thing.


This is Steve, the yeoman warder who gave our tour.  He was wonderful.  If you go to the Tower of London, take a tour.  They are wonderful!

You might notice that his outfit is different from the yeoman warders photo at the beginning of this post.  The red uniforms are the dress uniforms that they wear for formal occasions (like the Queen opening Parliament!) and after they change back into their regular uniforms, like the one Steve is wearing.

You might also notice the E II R on his belly.  We saw this E II R thing a lot of different places throughout London - post office drop boxes, buildings, uniforms, buttons on uniforms, souvenirs - and couldn't figure out what it meant.  Eventually we discovered that it stands for Elizabeth the Second Regina (regina is Latin for queen) and that when she dies EVERYTHING that has E II R on it will be replaced with the new monarch's initials ASAP.  If Prince Charles doesn't change his name, his initials will be C III R (Charles the Third Rex (Latin for king)).  I'm just saying that's gotta cost a lot of money to replace everything that's gone up in the last 60 years with E II R on it, not to mention changing the money to have Charles' face on in instead of Elizabeth's.

Since we were already planning to come back later in the week to see the Crown Jewels again, we didn't see everything at The Tower of London before we left.  We had lunch at Subway across the street then headed to St. Paul's Cathedral.  You know, the same St. Paul's Cathedral from the Mary Poppins song "Feed the Birds."  Also, the same St. Paul's Cathedral in which Princess Diana married Prince Charles.  Photos were not allowed at all inside.


We got there a bit late and were concerned that we wouldn't be able to see everything, so we started by climbing the steps of St. Paul's Dome.  The audio tour was pretty interesting and to save time we listened to a few selections while we climbed.

I went all the way up to the Golden Gallery and T stopped at the Stone Gallery.  Even though T doesn't really do heights, the climb was just like a regular staircase (narrower, though) and the fence around the outside is very tall and has lots of bars so he felt fine.   Look how safe it was.  Pay no attention to the fact that we forgot to take off our audio guides.

A lot of the climb between the Stone and Golden Galleries is a wrought iron spiral staircase (aka you can see all the way down beneath it and to either side) so it's probably good that T didn't come all the way to the top with me.  The view from the outside of the Golden Gallery is pretty much the same as the view from the Stone Gallery, so if you're feeling tired or are scared of heights you don't miss too much by skipping the Golden Gallery.  Though, at the top of the Golden Gallery is a one foot glass covered hole in the floor and you can see all the way to the cathedral floor and that was pretty cool.

T took these photos from the Stone Gallery.


I was sore the next day from all the steps.  But we just didn't do steps in St. Paul's - there are SO many steps in all of the tube stations.  They are so much further underground than the NYC subway stations!  We did so many stairs in tube stations and museums that by the end of the trip every time we saw a set of stairs I was thinking, "Stairs!  My old nemesis!"

The virtual tour from the official St. Paul's Cathedral website is really cool and pretty much shows everything we saw.  I would recommend checking out the main page it starts you on, the whispering gallery, and the view from the top if you are interested in seeing what we saw.

I think the Cathedral is quite beautiful.  It's all just so... white and light colored and sparkly.  It really is gorgeous.  Westminster Abby's interior (which we saw on day 5) is much darker by comparison.  T and I didn't really care at all for the crypt.  It's like an indoor graveyard, which is of course what it is, but it didn't feel special or look special or anything like that.

We decided to stay for Evensong after the Cathedral closed to tourists and that was a huge mistake.  Neither of us had been to an Evensong before so we didn't really know what to expect.  We sort of thought it would be organ and choir music.  And it sort of was, but mostly it was some prayers and a short sermon and a bit of the boy's choir singing and a lot of boring.  The songs weren't that pretty - the acoustics were such that it was impossible to tell what the lyrics were even though we had a printed copy right in front of us!  Really the best part was the organ music as we were leaving.

We left and headed to Millennium Bridge and saw that the Thames River was dirty - shock.  (I wrote Tems the first time because that is how it is pronounced!)  I actually expected the Thames to be worse than it was because Parliament, which sits literally on the river bank, has closed before because the stench of the river was so bad.

While we were walking on the Millennium Bridge there was someone dressed in a crown and a dress and a Queen Elizabeth mask and waving.  That person came up and gave T a hug (and he hugged them back, sort of) then continued walking and waving.  Quite strange. 

Then we took the tube to Parliament and Big Ben for photos.  You can go inside Big Ben, but only if you are a UK citizen and book it way far in advance.  So obviously T and I just did photos.


See, they really do love their royalty.  They even have royal lamp posts.



Parliament is one LOOOONG building.  That is the Thames literally right up against the side of the building.


And a royal fence here!

We passed the Cenotaph on our way to dinner at McDonald's (quite a walk) then headed home.  If you recall from the most recent Royal Wedding, the Cenotaph is where William saluted and Kate bowed her head as they passed in the carriage.

The fast food menus in the UK are not the same as fast food menus in the states.  In fact, at most places you would be hard pressed to find an actual menu, they just have the newest promotions up.  Here I am enjoying a Starburst flavored milkshake and Chicago style burger (basically a burger plus bacon) at McDonald's.

Fast food places are also interesting because at many places there are no trash cans and you don't bus your own table.  You just leave everything at your table and an employee comes around to pick it all up.  I don't know if this is because they are trying to keep people from scrounging in the trash for food or what.  Actually, one of our British observations is that it is hard to find a trash can anywhere.  We had a hard time finding one in Heathrow when we arrived, there are none on the streets or tube or rail stations or in restaurants.  It's very strange.